If you are planning a visit to Ireland, I highly recommend making it a road trip. Not only will you have more time to stop at any number of historic roadside points of interest, but you will also get a chance to sample some truly amazing road trip food in Ireland on the Wild Atlantic Way.
What is The Wild Atlantic Way?
As I heard often enough, there’s Dublin and then there’s the rest of Ireland. Dublin reminds me of a theme park where all the workers sneak behind the backdrops for smoke breaks when they are sick of the tourists. The Wild Atlantic Way is the entirety of the west coast, riding the edge between the land and the sea. It feels more genuine, less frenetic, and doesn’t hold back when it comes to striking beauty. The Irish have been fishing these waters and that appreciation for what the ocean provides is obvious in their food and places to eat in Ireland.
Renting a car and driving the coast to find places like this is only part of the experience. Compare car rental services in Ireland and save. Check TripAdvisor for places to eat in Ireland near you.
O’Donohues Pub, Fanore, Co. Clare
Driving down the coast towards the Cliffs of Moher, you’ll find a roadside pub called O’Donohues. Overlooking the coast, it sits between that fine line between the Atlantic Ocean and the rise of ancient limestone known as the Burren. Pushing out of my comfort zone of fish always accompanied by chips, I ordered the seafood chowder with brown bread and a pint of Carlsberg lager.
The passage of time was recorded only by the striations left on the glass as I drank my beer. The cream-based soup was filled with a variety of different types of locally caught seafood. Chunks of cod or haddock, mussels, potato, and even some recognizable pieces of crab—not in the least bit fishy tasting. I sopped up the last with my bread and finished my pint as I watched the waves roll in.
Moran’s Oyster Cottage, Kilcogan, Co. Clare
Living in a land-locked state, I had never tried oysters on the half-shell before. Moran’s oysters are brought in daily from Galway Bay, growing in beds which supply ideal levels of fresh river water and cold North Atlantic salt water from the bay.
The oysters are served with a wedge of lemon, a vinaigrette with vinegar and red onion, or tabasco. I ordered half gigas, and half Galway flat oysters. My server explained how to free the oysters from their shell with the knife and slurp them down. The gigas were first, tasting like sweet seawater. The native Galway oysters were stronger, with an almost earthy aftertaste. Moran’s Oyster Cottage might have ruined me for other oysters.
I arrived almost an hour before lunch was served and was invited to sit inside out of the rain. During my travels through Ireland, I never had a problem with sitting at a table and writing in my notebook during a meal. Treating your servers with kindness and respect gets you a lot further than being the obnoxious American tourist who is always in a rush to get nowhere.
Ahoy Cafe: Killybegs, Co. Donegal
For my 47th birthday, I headed north up the coast through Sligo, towards the Silver Strand Beach of Malin Beg and the Slieve League Cliffs. On the way, I stopped for lunch at Ahoy Cafe in Killybegs, the largest fishing port in Ireland. Unlike Leo Burdock’s, Ahoy Cafe used haddock, which is slightly stronger compared to cod. At the risk of Leo Burdock’s reputation, I would say Ahoy was the winner. I think the only way you could get fresher fish is if you caught it yourself.
I spent the afternoon walking barefoot on a Malin Beg beach and then watching the sun set over the Atlantic from atop some of the highest sea cliffs in Europe. Though I was half a world away from home, it was one of the best birthdays of my life.
Linnane’s Lobster Bar, New Quay, Co. Clare
Forgoing seafood in hopes of redemption, I ordered the slow-cooked beef cheek and Guinness stew. Topped with mashed potatoes and a garnish of pea shoots, I savored each bite as it melted in my mouth. Even my pint defied the curse of Guinness not traveling well. Amazing.
The chef stopped by and suggested the rich chocolate torte with raspberry compote and whipped cream for dessert. At the neighboring table, I struck up a conversation with a local woman who spoke covering her mouth between shy forkfuls of her crab and burren-smoked salmon salad. We laughed and traded stories as the hours melted away.
Local Places to Eat In Ireland You Can Afford
At the farmers markets, sellers bring everything from wild-caught seafood to fresh produce. Cabbages, raspberry jam, and even potatoes—the only time I saw a potato in Ireland that wasn’t mashed or made into chips. Along with used books, hand-made jewelry, and other crafts, the farmers markets are worth a visit.
Shopping at a grocery store will help stretch your budget, especially if you are staying somewhere you can cook. I found prices to be cheap in comparison to the States. Prosciutto, bacon, butter, milk, white and black pudding, and cheeses were cheap, but top shelf quality. The butter costs half as much here, and Kerrygold that everyone loves so much in the States is pretty much mid.
Use Your Base Camp for a Cheap Place to Eat
The mini-fridge in my vacation rental kept several days worth of charcuterie around when I wasn’t on the road. An electric tea kettle in my room and a big box of Barry’s Tea bags kept me caffeinated. Mix a splash of Irish milk into your tea with sugar and you won’t miss coffee. (While you sip your tea and plan your next day’s events, check out TripAdvisor for things to do in the area.). Staying at a vacation rental made life that much easier, rather than living out of suitcases in a hotel room. My rental was cozy, accommodating, and offered easy access to wherever I was headed.
Breakfast rolls: Ireland’s Best-kept Secret
Just about every day on the Wild Atlantic Way started off the same way. Before I set out on the winding roads, I picked up breakfast rolls at MacMahon’s filling stations. Breakfast rolls consist of all the main ingredients of the full Irish breakfast. Starting off with bread for the roll, softened butter or other condiments, you can make it however you like.
I usually went with streaky bacon, white and black pudding, and sautéed mushrooms. Though you could add poached eggs, grilled tomatoes, and more. I also grabbed a half-liter of milk, drinking it straight from the jug and pitching the empty into the back seat.
For a snack later, a bag of Tayto crisps and a bottle of Club Rock Shandy “With Real Bits!” As hyped as the full Irish breakfast is, I would have to say the breakfast roll is better. For about half the price, you get a hearty, portable breakfast that keeps you full as you drive the winding roads. It’s what the locals are eating.
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